Toyworld Commander Of Tactical Operation (Bumblebee Movie Nemesis Prime) Images

ali tavakoly

I bouit on ebay

He told me to buy it here:

Collector-specific enhanced protection EPE pearl cotton foam for Transformers | eBay

Select the "increased freight" option and buy the corresponding amount, (50 in your case) and then put in your order number in the comments.

Atomic Tofu

Man, it looks like those 2 are teasing the people that are still waiting on whichever one they ordered…my case the M09.

They totally are. Freedom leader where are you…

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Can someone help me find where bababobo wants to to send $50 to get the toy I paid for?

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Just writing up my thoughts on all three

fywdyl

I have an issue with bababobo. I pre-ordered this guy last year in Nov. When the standard version was released, I asked baba about it in May and they said they didn't get enough from TW. Followed up in July with an email, no reply. Sent an email last week, no reply. Anyone know how else I can get a hold of them? At the very least they should just give an update on the situation, but they're outright ignoring the inquiries.

After this gets sorted out, I'll use show.z exclusively.

So a follow up on this situation. I managed to get a hold of baba on WhatsApp. I asked him if it's in stock, and he said yes, go ahead and order. I informed him that I had placed a pre-order a while back and to check my order number. Then he told me back in May he requested additional money for shipping. I never received an email about this and I've been checking the mobile site daily for any updates since July. Turns out on the desktop site, there is an order message function and that is where he asked me to pay additional for shipping. I don't understand why an email can't be sent like Show.z does and their mobile site does not have any notifications of order messages. In fact, you can't even get into order messages from the mobile site.

@ali tavakoly I recommend checking your account under baba's desktop version of the website if you ordered from his site directly.

I have my initial results! Both finishes look to be viable options, with caveats for each of them.

For the Cabot's, it's just really, really thin. One coat wasn't enough to make much of a difference, but it seems to have gone on and stayed on so build-up is definitely an option. I have a suspicion that between this and its intended use (flooring) it may well wind up being a better long-term option if you're willing to put in a little more work up front. Keep in mind that this is also with two layers, so we're probably talking a multiple day project.

The Timber Protect has the reverse problem, in that it's too thick. To get it to work I you basically have to dilute it or else it will glob up and give good purchase to the joint removing it. Thinning isn't terrible given that just takes water, but it's a bit of a mess to get out of the tin in small amounts if you're not going to devote the whole can. That gives you the option to go as thin as the Cabot's (thus requiring more coats and potentially being stronger) or going a little thicker to get it done in one shot. My testing was around 2 parts finish to 1 part water (not exact), and it's made an immediately noticeable difference.

Both did show some minor flaking after re-assembly and rotation. I suppose that's a given, since they'll have invariably not settled perfectly flat to each other. But the flakes came off clear and clean, leaving the rotation feeling smooth. So I figure that's just part of the process. The Timber Protect did flake more in places and took off some bits that didn't bond all that well to the plastic but I put that down to the initial, too-thick layer since it wasn't universal.

I suppose the main take-away is that using water-based polyurethane is viable. Whether it is or isn't the same as Kiki I have no idea, but it has a strong resemblance both visually and functionally.

As for which I'm planning to use? Theoretically the Cabot's should be more durable, thus worth the work. But I'm lazy and forgetful, so I like the idea of finishing with only one or two layers. Plus the Timber Protect works out a lot cheaper – about 50% more (after diluting) for about 40% less, or only about a quarter of the cost, plus an old coffee jar to store pre-mixed which I was going to have on hand anyway (and I'll have another in a month or two).

Will do. I hit them with a second coat after a couple of hours, mostly because I noticed the right-hand side had sort-of clumped due to how thick it was, which would have easily just peeled off when putting everything back together and testing. In the interest of fairness I did the other side again, just to match.

For the second coat I poured some of the Timber Protect into a smaller container (I knew they'd come in handy eventually! But it was a hell of a mess) so I could dilute it a little and wound up at around 2:1 finish to water. Still thicker than the Cabots, but more of a liquid now than a gel. It seemed to form around the joints a lot better, so I have higher hopes this time. But if I were to use it again I'd mix it in a much larger container so it's less messy (have a spare coffee jar now which should work). The Cabots was unaltered.

Frankly I'm surprised the Timber Protect works as a finish with how thick it is. It'd have almost no penetration into the underlying wood, so I'd question its ability to stay in place. The instructions don't mention it, but maybe you are supposed to thin it?

Update as of the moment: both have dried completely clear after starting a milky white, which is good. Both are also completely dry to the touch but I'm still going to leave it until tomorrow afternoon before re-assembling, just in case. I did also take the opportunity to put some of the now-diluted Timber Protect into the slots that his shoulders tab into and they're holding wonderfully now, so there's definitely a good chance it's viable.

Also worth mentioning is that anywhere I didn't mop up the extra has taken on a gloss finish. It can be removed (at least for now) just by scraping it with my fingernail, so I'm not massively concerned.

Eddielai2016

hows that experiment?

Good question. I'd honestly forgotten about it with the other things going on at the moment. Will need to find myself a sacrifi…err… willing test subject and look into that over the next couple day. Ultrl Magenus is seeming to be a good candidate due to price, availability, and floppiness, with M09 on standby for more thorough testing if it looks promising.

*ed: The experiment has started. Poor Ultrl Magenus has donated his body to science. Bicep mushrooms and thigh balls are the joints in question – left-hand side of each is the Cabots, right-hand side the Timber Protect.

Initial thoughts? That Timber Protect stuff is THICK. It's almost like a gel. So if it works out, going forward it would be worth thinning it out a little to help it spread. Which in turn makes it even better bang-for-buck since it was already only 60% of the price. The Cabots is like water in comparison.

Otherwise the two look almost the same. A milky white colour which thins out fairly quickly when you work the joint, and should hopefully dry clear (all four joints are blue so it should stand out otherwise).

Clean-up wasn't a problem either. Both just wiped off with a paper towel and appeared to leave no trace on the plastic, but it's fair to say I didn't overly scrutinise the surface.

Unfortunately this also represents the first time I'll be attempting to tighten joints. So I'm not 100% sure of the process (I looked up a bit and it doesn't seem difficult, but I know better than to judge things on the surface). I believe I'm up to the "wait 24 hours for it to dry" part now so I'll revisit tomorrow. If I had to pick a front-runner based on what I've seen so far it would be the Cabots based on how well it flowed after application.