With the release date of December coming upon us, ToyWorld has released some colored test-shot images of their first two Constructicons, Bulldozer (Bonecrusher) and Unearth (Scavenger).
It’s clear from these test shots that ToyWorld is going for a more G1 toy-accurate deco by using green and purple treads for the respective figures rather than the anticipated black treads as well as chrome accents that can be seen in both modes. The most glaring departure from the source material is the decision to use red translucent plastic on both the chest of Bulldozer’s bot-mode and for the alt-mode cab of Unearth.
These figures do appear intended to scale with your Masterpiece collection and feature moving treads, perfect accent paint apps, detailed sculpts, individual weapons as well as the combiner forearms, hands and drill bits all of which are to be used to create a massive 20-inch combiner.
Look for these figures to be released from our site sponsors sometime in December.
Nicorobot
A nice comparison from a Facebook page called "El garaje de Javitron":
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However, i feel that the comparison between the two Devastator will tell a different story.
junkbot
Probably so. It would make sense that TW's head was perhaps in the right place when they first started and then they fell apart and started f'n consumers with poor quality plastic. That is a guess.
Honesty
Maybe he means the 1.0 version or one or two that came after this one? I have lost track how many reissues this thing has gotten. I have the 1.0 version — the one that didn’t come as a box set and instead as individual releases.
Traded someone on here my silver thighs, green barrel and Ox head for their green thighs, purple barrel and G1 head.
junkbot
Imperfect meaning? lol. Just curious.
phu van
The perfect version is the worst version, but the imperfect version is the best version
junkbot
Yea me too. Showz hooked me up, but just like you, that was years ago too and now parts replacement is obsolete. Oops
backhawkdown
I had a small breakage on the weathered yellow when I first put him into Devastator mode and haven’t dared disassemble him since. This was years ago when it was first released. I doubt I ever transform him again.
junkbot
Nice. Yup. That’s what I meant. Too lazy to type it all out. LOFL!! Jk. Thanks bro for the info.
Pinkmyfloyd
If by P version you mean C07P I have not
junkbot
So just curious if anyone who has the P version which is metallic or the weathered yellow if you have experienced any major breaks. Thanks for info.
smkspy
Yeah, that's my bad. Red window version is just CO7P. Probably got perfect edition in my head from the P.
Pinkmyfloyd
As far as I can tell mine isn’t the perfect edition
Magna Jet Convoy
Thanks for all the good counsel @MV Steve . gonna give the tapping holes to M2.2 a crack and see how that goes. Thus far I've yet to snap any posts off – so haven't needed to JB weld anything. I keep coming back to the same thing – its such a shame Toyworld took a great project by Zeta and cheaped out on the customers after first couple of releases.
MV Steve
JB Weld is just a brand name of a 2 part high strength epoxy, good stuff! Typically it comes in two tunes and you squeeze out equal parts and thoroughly mix starting the reaction. Have your work surfaces ready because the timer starts once mixed. It has a pretty forgiving time to work with (not instant like superglue) and is quite runny at first and a bit of a pain if you're trying to build it up. I used the stuff to repair a shattered die-cast waist of a Voltron figure that was missing some chunks. After making a support block and using tape to block where the chunks were missing, I smeared and filled the areas of the waist. It's rock solid now and been holding for a couple years.
Don't worry if you can't find or don't have access to JB Weld, you can get two part epoxy from so many brands, 3M, Gorilla Glue, Superglue, & Locktite to name a few. I used the 3000psi high strength clear stuff from 3M to bond two halves of a motorcycle airbox together and got some drips over the edge that I figured I'd clean after but I waited too long and I couldn't chisel the stuff off and razor blades just wanted to slip over it. It needed to be ground down which I was going to risk damage to the paint so it stayed.
The difference in screw diameter is small but significant, to put into perspective, from 2.35 to 2.2 is equivalent to the thickness of 3 1/2 sheets of paper or post-it note, it's not much, but with the subtle difference and using a tap, you should have no trouble cutting threads in plastic and the screws will go in easier without pressuring the plastic to crack.
Is there a post that's not cracked that you could measure the inner diameter? Knowing that would be better to know what tap size for machine thread is better. The peaks of threads are larger on a coarse thread screw than a machine thread, so both having the same outer diameter would result in the center shank of the screw being larger on the machine thread vs the coarse and you want to avoid that.
phu van
nightmare again
smkspy
Same, it's the "perfect" edition. Never had any problem other than having to grease up the joint when I got him.
Pinkmyfloyd
That looks like the version I have and mine has no issues and I’ve had it since 2019 or 18
jeffmcgee
Oh I know. Already got a piece or two broken from the previous owner. But a man can dream!
Turingmachine1975
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Collector20
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